Tips for watering your staged Orchid
A Staged Orchid is any orchid that is kept in its plastic grow pot and placed inside a decorative container. The orchid is then stabilized inside the container and the surface is designed with mosses and lichens. The surface is purely aesthetic and only serves to cover the grow pot and any mechanics we use to secure the plants in the container (and looks great). This could be 1 orchid in a small pot or 10 in a large one, they are designed the same way and are intended to be watered in place. Since we are covering the grow pot- this will cut down evaporation drastically and the pot will dry much slower so we need to approach watering carefully
- Always check BEFORE you water Staged Orchids may need a little water each week but its always best to check first. The best way to check is with your finger directly into the grow pot. Our Staged Orchids are typically grown in Sphagnum Moss which can retain water for long periods of time. Wet Sphagnum will feel very cool to the touch and distinctively wet while dryer Sphagnum will be a bit "spongey' to the touch but still dry. Its not uncommon to go 2 weeks between waterings with staged orchids
Wet to the touch? skip watering for at least a few days before checking again Dry? water
- How to water Using a small-mouthed watering can, something with a spout, or even an old water bottle, water "under" the foliage of each plant in the planter. The easiest way is to lift the lower leaves up and water at the base. This will make sure the water hits the grow pot and the roots. Make sure you water each individual plant. Sometimes in larger Staged Orchids it can be hard to tell how many plants are in the container but if you look you can discern individual sets of leaves (not flower-spikes) Even a little water spilled into the top of the plant (or "Crown") should be dabbed out as it can cause rot and you will loose foliage and flowers rapidly
How much water? 1/4cup (2oz) - 1/2cup (4oz) per plant
Other tips to consider
- No Ice Cubes, Ever. Tepid tap water is just fine.
- A warmer/brighter/dryer location will dry your plants faster while a cooler/darker/humid spot will keep them wetter longer
- When in doubt dry it out. Go a couple extra days if you're unsure. A waterlogged planter will almost surely kill off roots quickly which means they lose their ability to uptake water and blooms will collapse or fade much faster
- Remember to water under the foliage. This will insure you hit the root system and avoid the dreaded Crown Rot which happens when water collects in the top (or crown) of the plant.
- If you felt you flooded the pot with water, take it to the sink and "tip" excess water from the planter
The #1 problem directly related to watering- Crown rot is caused when water is left in the top or “crown” of a plant many times in household conditions. This is most commonly seen in Phalaenopsis or Paphiopedilums but can occur in any orchid that has leaves that form a crown. Under these conditions rot develops in the rhizome (in monopodial orchids this is the center column where leaves grow from) and quickly works its way down to the base killing all of the tissue that connects the leaves to the rhizome. It can happen very quickly and if unchecked can result in total loss of all foliage and any flowers if present. If caught quickly though the plant can recover and grow either a new crown or more commonly, a basal set of leaves (keiki) that eventually will reach flowering size. If you experience crown rot, remove all affected tissue with a clean cutting blade and sprinkle cinnamon on the surface can help but many times once it's spotted it's too late to save the plant. This is another reason to ensure good airflow in your growing space and always try to water early in the day to ensure your plants are dry by night time.
Collar rot occurs when there is a wet condition allowed to persist in the crevices of the orchid foliage. This usually happens when the plant is misted or watered and water on the leaves does not completely dry before it gets dark (keeping the cellophane around the plant can also exacerbate this problem) These are plants that grow in the canopies of trees where air is always moving and abundant and their foliage is susceptible to rot very easily
Occasionally, orchids will yellow 1-2 bottom leaves with no need to worry as this is quite common and can occur from a sudden change in environment or some water resting in the folds of the lower leaves. Either let these fall off or peel them off with a downward pull on the leaf.
Please visit our Common Orchid Ailments page for more info
Orchids are among the most diverse plants in the world- they occur at almost all ecological niches throughout the world. These are general care guidelines for the most common groups of orchids. As always, you can contact us anytime for more info or specific care for orchid species
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PHALAENOPSIS
[fal-uh-nop-sis] Asia
POSITION: Provide a spot near a window with no direct sun. Bright but diffused light is best. Avoid drafty areas or places near heating/cooling vents.
WATERING: Water as potting media approaches dryness, yet never let orchid sit in water. If there is no drain hole in pot, tip all excess water from pot after watering. Avoid water sitting in the “crown” of the plant.
TEMP: Nights 50-65 and Days 75-85 degrees is ideal with a day/night differential of at least 10 degrees. Cooler nights in the Fall/Winter usually initiate flowering.
FERTILIZING: Year around with a fertilizer that provides Macro as well as Micronutrients. If unsure, 1/2 strength every week is safe.
REPOTTING: Repot as media breaks down or plant visibly outgrows its pot- usually every 2 years is sufficient. Use a well draining media and provide a pot just large enough for the roots. Try to error on the side of under-potting.
ONCIDIUM (to include Intergeneric Oncidinae)
[on-sid-ee-uhm] (Central and South America)
POSITION: Provide a spot near a window with bright light yet shield from midday direct sun. Avoid drafty areas or places near heating/cooling vents. Not enough light is usually the result of poor growth or no flowering.
WATERING: Water as potting media approaches dryness while in growth, and let dry between watering in the darker/cooler months. If there is no drain hole in the pot, tip all excess water from pot after watering. Never allow orchid to sit in water.
TEMP: Nights 50-60 and Days 75-85 degrees is ideal with a day/night differential of at least 10 degrees. Cooler nights in the Fall/Winter can help initiate flowering.
FERTILIZING: Year around with a fertilizer that provides macro as well as micro nutrients. If your unsure, 1/2 strength every week is safe.
REPOTTING: Repot as media breaks down or plant visibly outgrows its pot- usually every 2 years is sufficient. Use a well draining media and provide a pot just large enough for the roots. Try to error on the side of under-potting.
DENDROBIUM
[den-droh-bee-uhm] Asia
POSITION: Provide a spot near a window with bright light yet shield from midday direct sun. Avoid drafty areas or places near heating/cooling vents. Not enough light is usually the cause of poor growth or no flowering.
WATERING: Water as a potting media approaches dryness while in growth, and let dry between watering in the darker/cool months. If there is no drain hole in pot, tip all excess water from pot after watering. Never allow orchid to sit in water.
TEMP: Nights 50-65 and Days 75-85 degrees is idea with a day/night differential of at least 10 degrees. Cooler nights in the Fall/Winter can initiate flowering.
FERTILIZING: Year around with a fertilizer that provides Macro as well as Micro nutrients. If your unsure; 1/2 strength every week is safe.
REPOTTING: Repot as media breaks down or plant visibly outgrows its pot- usually every 2 years is sufficient. Use a well draining media and provide a pot just large enough for the roots. Try to error on the side of under-potting.
PAPHIOPEDILUM
[paf-ee-oh-ped-a-lum] Asia
POSITION: Provide a spot near a window with no direct sun. Bright, yet diffused light is best. Avoid drafty areas or places near heating/cooling vents.
WATERING: Water as potting media approaches dryness. Never allow to become completely dry, yet never let orchid sit in water. If there is no drain hole in the pot, tip all excess water from pot after watering. Avoid water sitting in the “crown” of the plant.
TEMP: Nights 50-60 and Days 75-85 degrees is ideal with a day/night differential of at least 10 degrees.
FERTILIZING: Year around with a fertilizer that provides Macro as well as Micro nutrients. If your unsure, 1/2 strength every week is safe.
REPOTTING: Repot annually, slipper orchids do not tolerate old potting media well. Use a free draining media that holds moisture and provides a pot just large enough for the roots.
CYMBIDIUM
[sim-bid-ee-um] Asia
POSITION: Provide a sunny spot near a window. Bright diffused light is best. Avoid drafty areas or places near heating/AC vents. Cymbidiums need sufficient light to grow & flower well.
WATERING: When in growth or flower, water as potting media approaches dryness. Never allow to become completely dry yet never let orchid sit in water. If no growth in evident, allow media to dry between waterings. If pseudo-bulbs become too shriveled increase frequency. If there is no drain hole in pot, tip all excess water from pot after watering. Make sure to run copious amounts of water through pot.
TEMP: Nights 40-55 and Days 75-85 degrees is ideal with a day/night differential of at least 10 degrees. In the Fall, allow the plant to experience a few weeks of nighttime temps in the 40’s to initiate flowering.
FERTILIZING: Year around with a fertilizer that provides Macro as well as Micro nutrients. If your unsure, 1/2 strength every week is safe.
REPOTTING: Repot only when you see new growth/roots. Use a free draining semi-decomposed or terrestrial media that holds moisture and provide a pot just large enough for 2 years growth.
CATTLEYA
[kat-lee-ah] Central and South America
POSTION: Provide a sunny spot near a window. Bright diffused light is best. Avoid drafty areas or places near heating/AC vents. Cattleyas need sufficient light to grow & flower well. Poor growth or no flowering is usually the indication of poor light.
WATERING: Water as potting media approaches dryness, yet never let orchid sit in water. If there is no drain in pot, tip all excess water from pot after watering.
TEMP: Between 65 and 80 degrees is ideal with a day/night differential of at least 10 degrees. Cooler nights in the Fall/Winter helps to initiate flowering.
FERTILIZING: Year around with a fertilizer that provides Macro as well as Micronutrients. If unsure, 1/2 strength every week is safe.
REPOTTING: Repot as media breaks down or plant visibly outgrows its pot- usually every 2 years is sufficient. Use a well draining media and provide a pot just large enough for the roots. Try to error on the side of under-potting.